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READING HALL "THE DOORS OF WISDOM" 2024

INTRODUCTION TO THE CREATION OF THE UNIVERSE ACCORDING THE GENESIS

DIVINE HISTORY

Testament of Christ. Creation of the universe. Heart of Mary. Against the Antichrist

 

HISTORY OF  OREGON

 

CHAPTER I. OREGON IN 1834.

The Northwest Coast and the Oregon Territory—Physical Features —Mountain Ranges and Rivers—The Imperious Columbia—Distribution of Vegetation—Climate—Sunshine and Rain—Post-plantings of Civilization — Fort Vancouver — Its Lord Paramount— The Garden—Hospitality—Money, Morality, and Religion—Fort George—Fort Nisqually—Forts Langley, Umpqua, and Walla Walla Okanagan and Colville — Forts Hall and Boise — Fort William and Wapato Island—The French-Canadian Settlement —Missionaries, Traders, Farmers, Horse-dealers, Scientists, and Fur-hunters as Empire-buildersOrigin of the Term Oregon.

 

The Oregon Territory, when first the term came into use, embraced the same somewhat undefined region which in these Pacific States’ histories I have denominated the Northwest Coast; namely, the lands lying between the Rocky Mountains and the Pacific Ocean, and extending northward indefinitely from the forty-second parallel of latitude. Later the name Oregon was applied to a narrower area.

In surface and climate it is varied; in resources limitless, though its possibilities are little known. There is grand and beautiful scenery in every portion of it; some wild and rugged, some treeless and lonely; altogether a magnificent stretch of primeval wilderness. It is divided longitudinally by the Cascade Mountains, one with the Snowy Range of California and Nevada, and so called from the turmoil of the Columbia in passing through them; while the eastern portion is cut transversely by the Blue Mountains—in popular parlance blue, from the contrast of their violet shadows with the tawny plain. Another and lower range rims the seaboard from Lower California and along the Oregon frontage to the Russian possessions; the high spurs thrown out by the Coast and Cascade ranges separate the valleys thus formed in southern Oregon by barriers as insurmountable as those in Greece.

Besides mountains and rivers there are forests, not spread over broad areas of level surface as they were back of the English Plantations; beneficent nature has for the good of civilized man confined them to the mountain sides and to the low lands along the streams. On the mountains different species of pine, fir, and spruce prevail, while near the streams grow deciduous trees, oak, maple, ash, alder, cotton-wood, and willow. This distribution of forest and prairie gives a charming diversity to the landscape in the western portion of the territory, from California northward; and singularly attractive is the valley of the Willamette with its infinite variety of forms, the richness of verdure, and the frequent small rivers with their fertile and wooded borders.

In western Oregon there is scarcely a spot, and few places in the eastern part, where there is not visible some lofty snow-clad peak of the Cascade Range, standing as sentinel of the centuries, and forming a landmark and guide. In many places three or five of these glistening heights may be seen at once. Hardly less striking are the purpled summits of the continuous range, silvered with snow in spring and autumn, and glowing during the afternoons of summer under a rosy violet mist. Eastern Oregon seems less prolific of natural beauties than the country west of the Cascade Range, where the Columbia River provides not only uninterrupted navigation from the sea to the heart of the mountains, but constitutes in itself a continuous panorama of rare views, to which minds even of the least ideality soon become attached. As the eastern foothills sink to plain, the forest disappears, only a few scattering pines remaining in the vicinity of the Dalles; by the bars and on sandy margins of the river grow willows and low shrubs, while above them rise high rounded bluffs, bald and mo­notonous, yet not without picturesque effect. Beyond these the country rolls off in broken plains, covered in spring by a delicate verdure bright with flowers, later wearing a russet hue that early gave it the name of desert. Yet even through this eastern part there is much to please the eye in the softly flowing outlines of the ever-changing scene, in the calm blue which canopies the imperious Columbia raging at its rocky obstructions, and in the deep canons that channel the inflowing rivers from the south. A hundred miles from the mountains there are smaller streams with open valleys, occupied as grazing lands by native horse-owners, the Umatillas, Cayuses, Walla Wallas, and Nez Percés.

Yet farther east, beyond the Umatilla and Walla Walla countries, is the Snake or Lewis River region, in the eyes of those who visit it as worthless as it is wild and lonely. Its waterless deserts, severely hot in summer and cold in winter, inspire the overland tourist with dread; and many a trapper and voyageur meets his death from want in crossing them. Yet fertile spots are found, pleasant little valleys where the climate is delightful, and, so far as appears, the earth fruitful. North of the Snake River the whole region is unexplored except as traversed by fur-hunters; indeed, away at the base of the Rocky Mountains is a large and diversified tract, a terra incognita to the world at large. And for many years to come this portion of the Oregon Territory offers few attractions to agriculturists. On the other hand, all the western portion of Oregon, especially the Willamette Valley and the Puget Sound region, has been favorably spoken of by successive explorers, until its spreading fame agitates the question of ownership.

Little is yet known of agricultural and mineral resources, but its mild and equable climate, affecting as it does the quality and value of furs, and being in itself so peculiar considering the latitude, is better understood. The winters of western Oregon are so mild that little ice forms; but they are wet, and cloudy of sky. The rains begin about mid-autumn and continue with greater or less constancy till May, after which fleeting showers occur until the June rise of the Columbia begins to decline. This excessive moisture comes in a measure from the Japan current, and is more immediately owing to the south-west winds of autumn and winter, driving inland the evaporations of ocean, which being arrested by the Cascade Range are precipitated on its seaward sides. Hence the peculiarities of the Oregon climate; the mountains wall the moisture from their eastern slopes, rendering that region arid. The dense growth of the western forests are of those trees that live on the moisture of the atmosphere, but do not like it about their roots. The evergreens of Oregon, the firs especially, refuse to grow on land that is subject to overflow, and their foliage protects the roots from rain. Spruce, yew, hemlock, and cedar grow on lower lands than firs and pines. It may seem anomalous that trees which avoid water should thrive in a so-called moist climate, and also that, while the climate is so wet, Oregon’s atmosphere is remarkably dry, as evidenced by the fact that wet articles exposed to the air, but protected from the rain, dry quickly even in the rainy season. Observing this, the early Oregonians call their ordinary rains ‘ mists,’ and maintain that they do not wet people; and by a further stretch of imagination their descendants may fancy themselves not affected by the December and January mists.

But even if the winters are unpleasantly rainy, the summers compensate. By the first of July the clouds which clothe the prairies in waving grass and beds of flowers have passed away, and a clear sun ushers in each long delightful day, which begins in a clear twilight two hours after midnight, and ends only in another lingering twilight, softer though not more beautiful than the first. Often the temperature of the dry summer season falls to sixty or fifty-seven degrees Fahrenheit; seldom it exceeds seventy-two or seventy-six, though occasionally rising for a brief period to ninety or one hundred; yet whatever the heat of meridian, by four o’clock in the afternoon it begins to abate, leaving the evening so pleasantly cool that the bed requires a blanket—so comfortably cool that the settlers acquire a love for sleep that becomes characteristic, and is sometimes mentioned to their discredit. About four months of dry weather, with little or no rainfall, constitutes the summer of western Oregon, during which the grass becomes yellow and the earth powdered Grain ripens and is gathered in August. September is seeding time, experience early teaching that it is better to have the wheat in the ground over­winter, even if it must be pastured down, than trust the chance of late spring sowing.

The food resources native to western Oregon are fish, game, and berries. The Indians use a root resembling the potato, which they call wapato, found in abundance on Wapato Island, and also in some shallow lakes or overflowed prairie land. In wild fruit the country is prolific; but none are as fine as the same kinds in the middle states of the continent. Elk, bear, and deer are plentiful, but owing to the difficulty of pursuit through the dense undergrowth of the mountain forests, the chase is laborious. There is an abundance of water-fowl, conspicuous among which are brant, geese of several species, cranes, mallard, canvas-back, and summer duck, blue-winged and green-winged teal, snipe, golden and killdee plover, and other wading birds, some of which are not palatable. Of game-birds found in woods there are also plenty; grouse, quails, pheasants, and wood-doves inhabit the thickets of young firs, and the groves of oak and fir that skirt the older and darker forest. Singing birds which make their homes in trees are rare. The only really musical bird of Oregon is the meadow­lark, which carols to the passer-by of the happiness he finds in his humble life near the ground.

The streams are well stocked with fish—the brooks with trout, and the rivers with salmon of two or three species. The most palatable and largest of these, the salmo quinnat, has been one of the chief articles of food for twenty years, and constitutes a staple in the Hudson’s Bay Company’s supplies; in fact, the company’s servants receive dried salmon and nothing else when other articles are scarce.

Such were the natural conditions of life in Oregon in 1834. European civilization, however, had already driven in its stakes here and there about the wilderness preparatory to its overthrow. For some time past the country had been dominated exclusively by fur-traders from Canada and Great Britain; now people from the United States begin to come and settle. Ownership becomes a moot question; the territory is held by the United States and Great Britain under treaty of joint occupancy. Although in the History of the Northwest Coast I have given full descriptions of the fur-traders’ forts and incipient settlements, I deem it advisable to review them here, so that the reader may have the picture fresh in his mind at the opening of this part of my history.

The most important post and place in all the Oregon Territory was Fort Vancouver, the Hudson’s Bay Company’s headquarters. It was situated upon a beautiful sloping plain, on the north bank of the Columbia, about six miles above the mouth of the Multnomah River, as the Willamette below the falls was still called, and opposite the centre of the Willamette Valley, at a point where the Columbia is broad and much divided by low, woody islands, which add diversity to a prospect embracing every element of grandeur and grace, from glistening snow-peaks to the reflections of leaning shrubbery, whose flowers of white or red are mirrored in the calm surface of this most majestic of rivers.

The fort was not formidable in appearance. It consisted of a strong stockade about twenty feet high, without bastions, embracing an area of two hundred and fifty by one hundred and fifty yards. Within this enclosure, around three sides, were ranged the dwellings and offices of the gentlemen in the company’s service. In the centre, facing the main entrance or great gate, was the residence of Doctor John McLoughlin, the governor by courtesy of the Hudson’s Bay Company in Oregon, a French Canadian structure, painted white, with piazza and flower beds in front, and grape­vines trained along a rude trellis. The steps leading to the hall of the governor’s house were of horseshoe form, and between the two flights stood a twenty-four-pound cannon, mounted on a ship’s carriage, and on either side of this were two mortar guns, all with shot piled orderly about them, but otherwise looking innocent enough in their peaceful resting-places. There were no galleries around the walls for sentries, nor loop-holes for small-arms, no appearances, in fact, indicating a dangerous neighborhood. Near the centre of the enclosure rose the company’s flag-staff, and everything about the place was orderly, neat, and business-like. The magazine, warehouses, store, and shops were all contained within the palisades, and during the hours appointed for labor every man attended to his duties, whether as trader, clerk, smith, baker, or tailor.

A bell large enough for a country church was supported by three stout poles about twenty feet high, covered with a little pointed roof to keep off the rain. This brazen monitor rang out at five o’clock in the morning, rousing the furriers, mechanics, and farmers to their tasks. At eight it announced breakfast; at nine, work again; at twelve, dinner; at one, work; at six, suspension of labor, and supper. Saturday’s work ended at five in the afternoon, at which time the physician of the establishment served to the men their week’s rations, consisting in winter of eight gallons of potatoes and eight salt salmon, and in summer of pease and tallow; no bread or meat being allowed, except occasionally. The Indian servants of the Indian wives hunted and fished for additional supplies. Nor was this unremitting industry unnecessary. The management of the Hudson’s Bay Company required its posts to be self-supporting. The extent of territory they traded over was immense, and the number of their forts increased the demand for such articles as could be produced only in favorable localities. For instance, at Fort Vancouver the demand for axes and hatchets for the trappers and Indians required fifty of them to be made daily. In addition to the manufacture of these, the smiths had plenty to do in repairing farming tools and milling machinery, and making the various articles required by a community of several hundred people. The carpenter, the turner, and the tailor were equally busy; two or three men were constantly employed making bread for the fort people and sea-biscuit for the coasting vessels. The furs had to be beaten once a week to drive out moths and dust. The clerks had not only to keep accounts and copy letters, but keep a journal of every day’s affairs. Among so many persons, some were sure to be in the hospital, and on these the best medical care was bestowed. Though so far from the world as to seem removed from the world’s wants, Fort Vancouver was no place for the indulgence of poetic idleness.

And if within the fort this industry was necessary, it was none the less so without, where a farm of about seven hundred acres had been brought under cultivation, on which was raised abundance of grain and vegetables, requiring extensive storehouses. Large bands of cattle and sheep were kept, the latter im proved by careful breeding until they yielded twelve­pound fleeces. From the few English apple seeds elsewhere mentioned had sprung trees which, though young, were so crowded with fruit as to need propping, and from the peach sprouts brought from Juan Fernandez Island had grown large trees that were bearing their first fruit. Indeed, the garden at Fort Vancouver rejoiced in a scientific overseer by the name of Bruce, who on visiting England with McLoughlin would see nothing in the duke of Devonshire’s garden so pleasing to him as his Fort Vancouver plants, yet was careful to abstract as many of the Chiswick improvements as his mind could carry. Even then, and before, Bruce cultivated strawberries, figs, and lemons, the first with great success, the other two with the fruitless efforts that alone could be expected in the northern tem­perate zone; ornamental trees and flowers also received his fostering care.

On the farm was a flouring mill and thrashing machine, worked by oxen or horses in the Arcadian way, yet sufficient for the wants of all. A few miles above the fort, on a little stream falling into the Columbia, stood a saw-mill, cutting lumber enough during the year to supply not only the fort, but to load one or two vessels for the Hawaiian Islands.

Between the fort and the river, on the smooth sloping plain, lay a village consisting of thirty or forty log houses, ranged along a single street, and occupied by the servants of the company, Canadians, half-breeds, and Hawaiians, with a few from the Orkney Islands. In every house an Indian woman presided as mistress, and the street swarmed with children of mixed blood. Nothing offensive met the eye; everywhere cleanliness and decorum prevailed.

When a visitor came to Fort Vancouverand the fort was seldom without its guest even in 1834—he would, if a person of consideration, be met at the boat­landing by the presiding officer, McLoughlin, a tall, large, commanding figure of benevolent mien, who courteously made him welcome to every comfort and convenience, as well as to his own genial society and that of his associates. Entering by one of the smaller gates at either side of the principal entrance, he was escorted to the doctor’s own residence, and assigned plain but comfortable quarters; for it was not in empty show that the hospitality of Fort Vancouver consisted, but in its thorough home-like features, its plenty, and its frank and cordial intercourse. The visitors were all of the sterner sex, no white ladies having yet set foot within these precincts.

It was a rule of the company that the Indian wives and offspring of the officers should live in the seclusion of their own apartments, which left the officers’ mess­room to themselves and their guests; and while no more time than necessary was consumed at table, the good cheer and the enlightened conversation of educated gentlemen threw over the entertainment a luxury and refinement all the more enjoyable after the rude experiences of a journey across the continent or a long voyage by sea. After the substantial dinner, concluded with a temperate glass of wine or spirits, the company withdrew for half an hour to the ‘bachelors’ hall,’ to indulge in a pipe, and discuss with animation the topics of the time. When the officers and clerks returned to business, the guest might choose between the library and outdoor attractions. A book, a boat, and a horse were always at his command. The sabbath was observed with the decorum of settled society. The service of the established church was read with impressiveness by Doctor McLoughlin himself, and listened to with reverence by the gentlemen and servants of the company. Respect for religion was inculcated both by precept and example. Observing that during his ten years’ residence in the country many young children were coming forward in the village and within the walls of the fort, McLoughlin secured the services of an American as teacher, one Solomon Smith, left objectless by the failure of Wyeth’s expedition; and the school thus organized, the first in Oregon, was a good one, wherein were taught the English branches, singing, deportment, and morality. It was the heart and brain of the Oregon Territory, though there were other places pulsating in response to the efforts at Fort Vancouver.

The most western establishment was Fort George, the Astoria of 1811-14. It no longer deserved to be called a fort, the defences of every description having disappeared, while at a little distance from the old stockade, now in ruins, was one principal building of hewn boards, surrounded with a number of Indian huts. Only about four acres were under cultivation, and only one white man, the trader in charge, resided there. It was maintained more as a point of observation than as a post affording commercial advantages.

A place of more importance was Fort Nisqually, situated on a little tributary of the river of that name, and less than a mile from the waters of Puget Sound. It consisted of a stockade about two hundred feet square, guarded by bastions well armed, enclosing a dozen small dwellings and the magazine and ware­houses of the company. The situation was unsurpassed, on an open plain, yet convenient to exhaustless forests of good timber, within a short distance of navigable waters, and with the grand Mount Rainier in full view. The fort had only been established about one year, at this time. Away to the north, on rivers draining the valleys of British Columbia, were several trading posts, Fort Langley and the rest, owing allegiance to the Oregon governor, but not requiring mention in this connection.

The only other post of the Hudson’s Bay Company, in what is now Oregon, was situated near the confluence of Elk Creek with the Umpqua River, two hundred miles south of the Columbia, and occupying a fine position among the hills of that beautiful country. It was but a small place, with a twenty-acre farm attached, under the charge of a French trader. The neat dwellings and other buildings were surrounded by the usual palisade, with bastions at the corners, for the Indians in this quarter were more savage than those in the vicinity of the Columbia.

About two hundred miles east of Fort Vancouver, on the east bank of the Columbia, near where it makes its great bend to the west, and at the mouth of the Walla Walla River, was a fort of that name. This establishment was also a stockade, and being in the country of warlike savages, there were two bastions, with an inner gallery, and other defences strongly constructed of drift-logs which had been brought from the mountains and heaped ashore at this place by the June freshets. Little agricultural land being found in the vicinity, and no timber, Fort Walla Walla was without the attractions of Fort Vancouver, but it ranked nevertheless as a place of importance, being the principal trading post between California and Stuart Lake, and accessible by water from Fort Vancouver. It was on the way from the great fur-hunting region about the head-waters of the Snake River and its tributaries, and the first resting-place the overland traveller met after leaving the Missouri River. There was always a genial and generous officer stationed at Fort Walla Walla, on whose head many a weary pilgrim called down blessings for favors received. Horses were plentiful, and a few cattle were kept there, but no grain was raised. The little garden spot by the river furnished vegetables, and those of an excellent quality. The climate was usually delightful, the only discomfort being the strong summer winds, which drove about with violence the dust, and sand, and gravel, so that it was deemed impossible to cultivate trees or shrubbery; hence the situation appeared without any beauty except that derived from a cloudless sky, and the near neighborhood of the picturesque cliffs of the Columbia and Walla Walla rivers.

One hundred and thirty-eight miles north from Fort Walla Walla lay Fort Okanagan, at the mouth of the Okanagan River, like the others a stockade, in charge of a gentlemanly officer. Other trading posts were located at favorable points on the Kootenais River, on the Spokane, on Lake Pend d’Oreille, and on the Flathead River, besides several north of the fiftieth parallel. But the post of the greatest importance next to Fort Vancouver was Fort Colville, situated on the Columbia River, one hundred miles north­east of Fort Okanagan, though much farther by the windings of the river. In the midst of a good agricultural country, with a fine climate, good fishing, and other advantages, it was the central supply post for all the other forts in the region of the north Columbia. Established shortly after Fort Vancouver, with its allotment of cattle, consisting of two cows and a bull, it had now like Fort Vancouver its lowing herds, furnishing beef, butter, and milk. It had, besides, bands of fine horses and other stock, and a grist-mill for the large yield of grain. On the well-cultivated farm grew also excellent vegetables in abundance.

Such a convenience as a saw-mill did not exist in all the upper country, notwithstanding the number of posts, hence there could be little architectural display or furniture except of the rudest kind. Bedsteads and chairs were luxuries not to be thought of; bunks and stools were made from split logs, with a hatchet. Yet, since those who called at Fort Colville had travelled many hundred miles with only a blanket for a bed, the good fare here afforded made the place to them a Canaan.

Two forts had this year been established in the territory east of the Blue Mountains drained by Snake River. The first was Fort Hall, erected by an American, Nathaniel J. Wyeth, on this river, at its junction with the Portneuf; the second was erected by the Hudson’s Bay Company, on the same river, a mile below the mouth of the Boise, and called Fort Boise.

The American, Wyeth, this being his second adventure in these parts, who had thus recently built, stocked, and manned Fort Hall, went on to the lower Columbia River that same autumn to meet a vessel, the brig May Dacre, of Boston, laden with goods from the United States, as the eastern seaboard of the great republic was then designated by western adventurers, and at the time of which I write he was engaged in building a fort and trading post on Wapato Island, which he called Fort William. With him came others, of whom I shall have occasion to speak in another place. While the work was being advanced, the men in Wyeth’s service were living in temporary huts; pigs, chickens, goats, and sheep were running about in the vicinity; the May Dacre was moored to the bank, and a prospective rival of Fort Vancouver was already well under way. Mr Wyeth’s adventures are given at length in The Northwest Coast, this volume beginning with an account of settlers from the United States promising permanence.

Nor was Fort William the only settlement in Oregon exclusive of the Hudson’s Bay Company’s forts. Thomas McKay, one of the race of Alexander McKay of the Astor expedition, and one of the company’s most celebrated leaders, occupied a farm on the Multnomah opposite the lower end of Wapato Island. And there were other farms from fifty to a hundred miles south of this. The servants of the company were hired for a term of years, and were free at its expiration. But as they had been obliged to receive their pay in kind, for which they had not always use, and had seldom saved their earnings, if they wished to retire they must live not far from Fort Vancouver, and continue as the company’s dependents, raising wheat, in exchange for which they re­ceived such indispensable articles as their condition of life demanded.

There were of this class, commonly called the French Canadians, a dozen or more families, most of them settled on a beautiful and fertile prairie about forty miles south of the Columbia, in the Valley Willamette. They lived in log houses, with large fire­places, after the manner of pioneers of other countries; had considerable land under cultivation; owned horses of the native stock, not remarkable for beauty, but tough and fleet; and had the use of such cattle as the fur company chose to lend them. Numerous half­breed children played about their doors; they had no cares of church or state; no aspirations beyond a comfortable subsistence, which was theirs; and being on good terms with their only neighbors, the natives, they passed their lives in peaceful monotony. At the falls of the Willamette were the log houses which had been built by McLoughlin in connection with his mill-works there, and which were occupied occasionally by the company’s servants, some improvements being still in progress at that place.

In addition to the French Canadians were a number of Americans who had come to the country with Wyeth’s first expedition, and had also made settlements in the same neighborhood, on the east side of the Willamette River. In all the American territory west of the Blue Mountains there were about thirty-five white men, including the party at Fort William, who had not belonged to the Hudson’s Bay Company, but were there with the intention to settle permanently.

Another element was this year introduced into the early society of Oregon. Since the fallen condition of the race left no spot of earth untainted, it followed that missionaries were needed to look after the spiritual interests of the natives of this western Eden. Missionaries were there in the persons of two brothers, named Lee, assisted by certain laymen, who, after having been received with the usual hospitality at Fort Vancouver, were busy erecting a dwelling and making other improvements at the place selected for their station, a little to the south of the French Canadian settlement in the Willamette Valley.

Besides the missionary family, there were at Fort Vancouver two gentlemen from the United States, who were travelling in the interests of science, Messrs Townsend and Nuttall, naturalists, after whom and by whom so many of our western plants were named; so that it cannot be said of Oregon that her earliest society was not good. After the failure of the Astor adventure, and previous to 1834, few persons had visited the Columbia River except those in some way connected with the fur-traders. Wyeth’s first company of twelve, including himself, was the only party of the kind and number to enter Oregon. Two years previous, David Douglas, a Scotch botanist, had visited the territory and had spent some time roaming over its mountains; and rarely had the river been entered by a foreign or American vessel.

Another constituent of early Oregon society appears at this juncture, and if not so respectable as the fur magnates, so religious as the missionaries, so learned as the scientists, or so order-loving as the French Canadians, united with the small American element it became a power in the land. It made its appear­ance in the form of ten persons coming with a band of horses from California, and led by Hall J. Kelley, who once figured on paper as the would-be founder of a new Pacific empire.

East of the Blue Range, and in and about the Rocky Mountains, were American trappers and traders, who from their wandering and precarious mode of life could not be accurately numbered, but were in all probably ten or twelve hundred, to whom were opposed equal numbers owing allegiance to the Hudson’s Bay Company. These were at that time hardly to be spoken of as component parts of any Oregon community, but some in time added themselves to those who had come from the United States.

Thus has been outlined a picture of the Oregon Territory in 1834, at which time this History of Oregon begins.

 

CHAPTER II. LIFE AT FORT VANCOUVER.

1825-1846.

 

FORTS