READING HALLTHE DOORS OF WISDOM |
PRINCE HENRY THE NAVIGATOR
XVII .CADAMOSTO. 1455-6.
We have now come
to the voyages of the Venetian Cadamosto, in the
service of Prince Henry. And though these were far from being the most striking
in their general effect, they are certainly the most famous, the best known, of
all the enterprises of these fifty years (1415-1460). It is true that Cadamosto fairly reached Sierra Leone and, passing the
farthest mark of the earlier Portuguese caravels, coasted along many miles of
that great eastern bend of the West African coast which we call the Gulf of
Guinea. But it is to his general fame as a seaman, his position in Italy, and
the interest he aroused by his written and published story that he owed his
greater share of attention.
When I first set
my mind, begins his narrative, on sailing the ocean between the Strait of Cadiz
and the Fortunate Islands, the one man who had tried to enter the aforesaid
ocean, since the days of our Father Adam, was the Infant Don Henry of Portugal,
whose illustrious and almost countless deeds I pass over, excepting only his
zeal for the Christian faith and his freedom from the bonds of matrimony. For
his father, King John, had not given up the ghost before he had warned his son
Henry with saving precepts, that the aforesaid Holy Faith he should foster with
a dauntless mind and not fail in his vows of warring down the foes of Christ.
Therefore every
year did Don Henry, as it were, challenging and hurling defiance at the Moors,
persist in sending out his caravels as far as the headland called the Cape of
Non (Not), from the belief that beyond the said Cape there is "No"
return possible. And as for a long time the ships of the Prince did not dare to
pass that point, Henry roused himself to accomplish this feat, seeing that his
caravels did much excel all other sailing ships afloat, and strictly enjoined
his captains not to return before they had passed the said Cape. Who steadily
pressing on, and never leaving sight of the shore, did in truth pass near one
hundred miles beyond, finding nothing but desert land.
Beyond this again,
for the space of one hundred and fifty miles, the Prince then sent another
fleet, which fared no better, and finding no trace of men or of tillage,
returned home. And Don Henry, growing ever keener for discovery, and excited by
the opposition as it were of nature, sent out again and again till his sailors
had reached beyond the Desert Coast to the land of the Arabs and of those new
races called Azaneguys, people of a tawny colour.
And finally there
appeared to these bold mariners the land of Ethiopia, which lies upon the shore
of the Southern ocean, and here again from day to day the explorers discovered
new races and new lands.
“Now I, Luigi Ca
da Mosto, who had sailed nearly all the Mediterranean
coasts, once leaving Venice for 'Celtogallia'
(France), but being caught by a storm off C. St. Vincent, had to take refuge in
the Prince's town, near the said Cape, and was here told of the glorious and
boundless conquests of the Prince, whence accrued such gain that from no
traffic in the world could the like be had. The which, continues the candid
trader, did exceedingly stir my soul, eager as it was for gain above all things
else; and so I made suit to be brought before the Prince, if so be that I might
gain leave to sail in his service, for since the profit of this voyage is
subject to his pleasure, he doth guard his monopoly with no small care”.
With the Prince,
at last, Cadamosto made terms: either that he, the
adventurer, should furnish the ships at his own cost, and take the whole risk
upon himself, and of the merchandise that he might gain a fourth part to go to
his lord; or that the Prince should bear the cost of equipment and should have
half the profits. But in any case, if there was no profit, the whole expense
should fall upon the trader. The Prince added that he would heartily welcome
any other volunteers from Venice, and on Cadamosto himself he urged an immediate start. "As for me," repeats the sailor,
"my age, my vigour, my skill equal to any toil,
above all my passionate desire to see the world and explore the unknown, set me
all on fire with eagerness. And especially the fact that no countryman of mine
had ever tried the like, and my certainty of winning the highest honour and gain from such a venture, made me forward to
offer myself. I only stayed to enquire from veteran Portuguese what merchandise
was the most highly prized among the Ethiopians and people of the furthest
South, and then went home to find the best light craft for the ocean coasting
that I had in mind." Meantime the Prince ordered a caravel to be equipped,
which he gave to one Vincent, a native of Lagos, as captain, and caused to be
armed to the teeth, as was required, and on the 21st of March, 1455, Cadamosto sailed for Madeira. On the 25th they were off
Porto Santo, and the Venetian stops to give us a description of the island,
which, he says in passing, had been found and colonised by the Prince’s seamen twenty-seven years before. It was worth the settling.
Every kind of grain and fruit was easily raised, and there was a great trade in
dragon’s blood, “which is made from the tears of a tree”.
On March 27th, Cadamosto sailed from Porto Santo to Madeira, forty miles
distant, and easily seen from the first island when the weather was cloudy, and
here the narrative stops some time to describe and admire sufficiently. Madeira
had been colonised under the lead and action of the
Prince four and twenty years before, and was now thickly peopled by the
Portuguese settlers. Beyond Portugal its existence was hardly known. Its name
was “from its woodland”,—here Cadamosto repeats the
traditional falsehood about the place,—but the first settlers had destroyed
most of this in trying to clear an open space by fire. The whole island had
once been in flames, the colonists only saved their lives by plunging into the
rivers, and even Zarco, the chief discoverer, with
his wife and children had to stand in a torrent bed for two whole days and
nights before they could venture on dry land again.
The island was
forty miles round; like Porto Santo, it was without a harbour,
but not without convenient roads for ships to lie in; the soil was fertile, well-watered
by eight rivers that flowed through the island. “Various kinds of carved wood
are exported, so that almost all Portugal is now adorned with tables and other
furniture made from these woods”.
“Hearing of the
great plenty of water in the island, the Prince ordered all the open country to
be planted with sugar-cane and with vines imported from Crete, which do
excellent well in a climate so well suited to the grape; the vine staves make
good bows, and are exported to Europe like the wine, red and white alike, but
especially the red. The grapes are ripe about Easter in each year”, and this
vintage, as early as Cadamosto’s day, was evidently
the main interest of the islanders, who had all the enthusiasm of a new venture
in their experiment, “for no one had ever tried his hand upon the soil before.”
From Madeira the
caravel sailed on 320 miles to the Canaries, of which says our Venetian, there
are ten, seven cultivated and three still desert; and of the seven inhabited
four are Christian, three Heathen, even now, fifty years after De Béthencourt's conquest. Neither wine nor grain can be
produced on this soil, and hardly any fruit, only a kind of dye, used for
clothes in Portugal; goat’s flesh and cheese can also be exported, and
something, Cadamosto fancies, might be made of the
wild asses that swarm in the islands.
Each of these
Canary islands being some forty miles from the next, the people of one do not
understand the speech of their neighbours. They have no walls, but open
villages; watch towers are placed on the highest mountains to guard the people
of one village from the attacks of the next, for a guerilla warfare, half
marauding, half serious civil war, is the order of the day.
Speaking of the
three heathen islands, which were also the most populous, Cadamosto stops a little over the mention of Teneriffe, “wonderful
among the islands of the earth, and able to be seen in clear weather for a
distance of seventy Spanish leagues, which is equal to two hundred and fifty
miles. And what makes it to be seen from so far, is that on the top is a great
rock of adamant, like a pyramid, which stone blazes like the mountain of Etna,
and is full fifteen miles from the plain, as the natives say”.
These natives have
no iron weapons, but fight with stones and wooden daggers; they go naked except
for a defensive armour of goat-skins, which they wear
in front and behind. Houses they have none, not even the poorest huts, but live
in mountain caves, without faith, without God. Some indeed worship the sun and
moon, and others planets, reverence certain idols; in their marriage customs
the chiefs have the first right by common consent, and at the graves of their
dead chiefs are most of their religious sacrifices; the islanders have only one
art, that of stone-slinging, unless one were to count their mountain-climbing
and skill in running and in all bodily exercises, in which nature has created
these Canarians to excel all other mortals.
They paint their
bodies with the juice of plants in all sorts of colours and think this the highest point of perfection, to be decked out on their skins
like a garden bed.
From the Canaries, Cadamosto sails to the White Cape, C. Blanco, on the
mainland, some way beyond Bojador, towards Ethiopia,
passing the bay and isles of Arguin on the way, where
the crews found such quantities of sea-birds that they brought home two ship-loads.
And here it is to be noticed, says the narrative, that in sailing from the
parts of Cadiz to that Ethiopia which faces to the south, you meet with nothing
but desert lands till you come to Cape Cantin, from
which it is a near course to C. Blanco. These parts towards the south do run
along the borders of the negroes’ land, and this great tract of white and arid
land, full of sand, very low lying at a dead level, it would be a quick thing
to cross in sixty days. At C. Blanco some hills begin to rise out of the plain,
and this cape was first found by the Portuguese, and on it is nothing but sand,
no trace of grass or trees; it is seen from far, being very sharply marked,
three-sided, and having on its crest three pyramids, as they may be called,
each one a mile from its neighbour. A little beyond this great desert tract is
a vast sea and a wondrous concourse of rivers, where only explorers have
reached. At C. Blanco there is a mart of Arab traders, a station for the camels
and caravans of the interior, and those pass by the cape who are coming from
Negro-land and going to the Barbary of North Africa. As one might expect on
such a barren stony soil, no wine or grain can be raised; the natives have oxen
and goats, but very few; milk of camels and others is their only drink; as for
religion, the wretches worship Mahomet and hate Christians right bitterly. What
is of more interest to the Venetian merchant, the traders of these parts have
plenty of camels which carry loads of brass and silver, and even of gold,
brought from the negroes to the people of our parts.
The natives of C.
Blanco are black as moles, but dress in white flowing robes, after the Moorish
fashion, with a turban wound round the head; and indeed plenty of Arabs are
always hovering off the cape and the bay of Arguin for the sake of trade with the Infant's ships, especially in silver, grain, and
woven stuffs, and above all in slaves and gold. To protect this commerce, the
Prince some time since (1448), built a fort in the bay, and every year the Portuguese
caravels that come here lie under its protection and exchange the negro slaves
that they have captured farther south for Arab horses, one horse against ten or
fifteen slaves, or for silks and woven stuffs from Morocco and Granada, from
Tunis and the whole land of Barbary. The Arabs on their side sell slaves, that
they have driven from the upland, to the Portuguese at Arguin,
in all nearly a thousand a year, so that the Europeans, who used to plunder all
this coast as far as the Senegal, now find it more profitable to trade.
The mention of the
Senegal brings Cadamosto to the next stage of his
voyage, to the great river, “which divides the Azaneguys,
Tawny Moors, from the First Kingdom of the Negroes”.
The Azaneguys, Cadamosto goes on to
define more exactly as a people of a colour something
between black and ashen hue, whom the Portuguese once plundered and enslaved
but now trade with peacefully enough. “For the Prince will not allow any
wrong-doing, being only eager that they should submit themselves to the law of
Christ. For at present they are in a doubt whether they should cleave to our
faith or to Mahomet’s slavery”. But they are a filthy race, continues the traveller, all of them mean and very abject, liars and
traitorous knaves, squat of figure, noisome of breath, though of a truth they
cover their mouths as of decency, saying that the mouth is a very cesspool and
sewer of impurity. They oil their hair with a foul-smelling grease, which they
think a great virtue and honour. Much do they make
also of their gross fat women, whose breasts they deform usually, that they may
hang out the more, straining their bodies (when) at seventeen years of age with
ropes.
Ignorant and
brutal as they are, they know no other Christian people but the Portuguese, who
have enslaved and plundered them now fourteen years. This much is certain, that
when they first saw the ships of Don Henry sailing past, they thought them to
be birds coming from far and cleaving the air with white wings. When the crews
furled sail and drew in to the shore, the natives changed their minds and
thought they were fishes; some, who first saw the ships sailing by night,
believed them to be phantoms gliding past. When they made out the men on board
of them, it was much debated whether these men could be mortal; all stood on
the shore, stupidly gazing at the new wonder.
The centre of power and of trade in these parts was not on the
coast, but some way inland. Six days' journey up the country is the place
called Tagaza, or the Gold-Market, whence there is a
great export of salt and metals which are brought on the camels of the Arabs
and Azaneguys down to the shore. Another route of
merchants is inland to the Negro Empire of Melli and
the city of Timbuctoo, where the heat is such that even animals cannot endure
to labour and no green thing grows for the food of
any quadruped, so that of one hundred camels bearing gold and salt (which they
store in two hundred or three hundred huts) scarce thirty return home to Tagaza, for the journey is a long one, 'tis forty days from Tagaza to Timbuctoo and thirty more from Timbuctoo to Melli.
“And how comes it”,
proceeds Cadamosto, “that these people want to use so
much salt?” and after some fanciful astrological reasoning he gives us his
practical answer, “to cool their blood in the extreme heat of the sun”: and so
much is it needed that when they unload their camels at the entrance of the
kingdom of Melli, they pack the salt in blocks on
men's heads and these last carry it, like a great army of footmen, through the
country. When one negro race barters the salt with another, the first party
comes to the place agreed on, and lays down the salt in heaps, each man marking
his own heap by some token. Then they go away out of sight, about the time of
midday sun, when the second party comes up, being most anxious to avoid
recognition and places by each heap so much gold as the buyer thinks good. Then
they too go away. The sellers come back in the evening, each one visits his
pile, and where the gold is enough for the seller's wishes, he takes it, leaves
the salt and goes away for good; where it is not enough, he leaves gold and
salt together and only goes away to wait again till the buyers have paid a
second visit. Now, the second party coming up again, take away the salt where
the gold has been accepted, but where it still lies, refused, they either add
more or take their money away altogether, according to what they think to be
the worth of the salt.
Once the King of Melli, who sent out a party with salt to exchange for gold,
ordered his men to make captive some of the negroes who concealed themselves so
carefully. They were to wait till the buyers should come up to put down their
gold; then they were to rush out and seize all they could. In this way one man
and only one was taken, who refused all food and died on the third day after
his capture, without uttering a word, “whereby the King of Melli did not gain much”, but which induced the men of Melli to believe that the other people were naturally dumb. The captors described the
appearance of those who escaped their hands, “men of fine build and height,
more than a palm’s length greater than their own, having the lower lip brought
out and hung down even to the breast, red and bleeding and disclosing their
teeth which were larger than the common, their eyes black, prominent, and
fierce-looking”.
For this treachery
the trade was broken off three whole years, till the great want of salt
compelled the injured negroes to resume, and since then the business had gone
on as before.
The gold thus
gained is carried by the men of Melli to their city,
and then portioned out in three parts; one part goes by the caravan route
towards Syria, the other two thirds go to Timbuctoo, and are there divided once
again, part going to Tunis, the head of Barbary, and part to the regions of Marocco, over against Granada, and without the strait of
the Pillars of Hercules (Gibraltar). And to those parts come Christian
merchants, and especially Italians, to buy the gold in exchange for merchandise
of every sort. For among the negroes and Azaneguys there is no coinage of gold or of silver, no money token of metal, but the
whole is simply matter for exchange.
From the trade, Cadamosto changes to discourse of the politics of the
natives, their manners and customs. Their government for the most part is not
monarchy, but a tyranny of the richest and most powerful caste. Their wars are
waged only with offensive arms, light spears and swords; they have no defensive armour, but use horses, which they sit as the Moors
do. Their ordinary garments are of cotton.
The plague of
excessive drought during all the year, except from August to October, is
aggravated at certain seasons by the worse plague of locusts, “and I myself
have seen them flying by troops upon the sea and shore like an army, but of
countless number”. After this long digression Cadamosto comes back to the Gulf of Senegal. “And this”, says he, “is the chief river of
the Region of the Negroes, dividing them from the Tawny Moors”. The mouth of
the estuary is a mile wide, but an island lying in mid-channel divides the
river into two parts just where it enters the sea. Though the central channel
is deep enough, the entrance is made difficult to strangers by the shallows and
sand banks on either side; every six hours the river rises and falls with the
flow and ebb of the ocean, and where it pours out its waters into the sea, the
flux and reflux of waters reaches to a distance of sixty miles, as say the
Portuguese who have watched it. The Senegal is nearly four hundred miles beyond
Cape Blanco; a sandy shore stretches between the two; up to the river the
sailor sees from the shore only the wandering Azaneguys,
tawny, squat, and miserable savages; across the stream to the south are the
real Blacks, “well built noble-looking men”, and
after so long a stretch of arid and stony desert, there is now a beautiful
green land, covered with fruit-bearing trees, the work of the river, which, men
say, comes from the Nile, being one of the four most glorious rivers of earth
that flow from the Garden of Eden and earthly paradise. For as the eastern Nile
waters Egypt, so this doth water Ethiopia.
Now the land of
these negroes is at the entering in of Ethiopia, from which to Cape Verde the
land is all level, where the King of Senegal, reigning over people that have no
cities, but only scattered huts, lives by the presents that his subjects bring
him. Such are oxen, goats, and horses, which are much valued for their
scarceness, but used without saddle, bridle, or trappings. To these presents
the King adds what he can plunder by his own strength, especially slaves, of
which the Blacks have a great trade with the Azaneguys.
Their horses they sell also to the Christian traders on the coast. The King can
have as many wives as he likes (and always keeps well above his minimum of
thirty), to each of whom is assigned a certain estate with slaves and cattle,
but not equal; to some more, to others less. The King goes the round of these
farms at will, and lives upon their produce. Any day you may see hosts of
slaves bringing fruits of all sorts to the King, as he goes through the country
with his motley following, all living at free quarters.
Of the negroes of
these parts most go naked, but the chiefs and great men use cotton shirts, as
the country abounds in this sort of stuff. Cadamosto describes in great detail the native manufacture of garments, and the habits of
the women; barefoot and bare-headed they go always, dressed in linen, elegant
enough in apparel, vile in life and diet, always chattering, great liars,
treacherous and deceitful to the last degree. Bloody and remorseless are the
wars the princes of these barbarians carry on against one another. They have no
horsemen or body armour, but use darts and spears,
barbed with many poisonous fangs, and several kinds of arrows, as with us. From
the beginning of the world they knew nothing of ships before the Portuguese
came; they only used light canoes or skiffs, each of which can be carried by
three men, and in which they fish and go from place to place on the river.
The boundaries of
the kingdom of Senegal are the ocean on the west, the land of Gambra on the south, the inland Blackman’s country on the
east, and on the north the River Niger (Senegal), which, “as I have said
before, divides the Azaneguys from the First Kingdom
of the Negroes. And the said river, concludes Cadamosto,
five years before my coming, had been explored by the Portuguese, who hoped to
open up a great commerce in those parts. So that every year from that time
their ships had been off that coast to trade”.
Cadamosto determined to push farther up the river than any had done before, and so
to come to the land of Budomel, one of the great
negro princes and kingdoms, for it was the name both of place and person. When
he came there he found “an Emperor so honest that he might have been an example
to any Christian”, who exchanged his horses, wool-fells, and linen goods for
the strangers’ merchandise and slaves, with deeds as honourable as his words. Our adventurer was so taken with Lord Budomel that he gladly went with him two hundred and fifty miles up country, on his
promising a supply of negro slaves, black but comely, and none of them more
than twelve years old.
On this
adventurous journey, of which we are next given a full account, Cadamosto is taken charge of by Bisboror,
the Prince’s nephew, “through whom I saw many things worth noting”. The
Venetian was not anxious to put off to sea, as the weather was very rough, so
rough indeed that no boat could venture off from the bank at the river's mouth
to where the ships lay, and the captain had to send word to his crews by negro
swimmers, who could pass any surf, "for that they excel all other living
men in the water and under it, for they can dive an hour without rising."
It is not worth while to follow Cadamosto in all his long account of what he saw and heard of negro life in the course of
this journey; it is as unsavoury as it is
commonplace. He repeats very much of what he has said before about the Azaneguys, of their servility to their Princes, “who are to
them as mortal Gods”; of the everlasting progresses and wanderings of those
Princes round their kingdoms, from kraal to kraal, living on the stores each
wife has provided; of the kraals themselves, no towns or castles, as people at
home might think, says Cadamosto, but merely
collections of forty and fifty huts, with a hedge of living trees round,
intertwined, and the royal palace in the middle.
The Prince of Budomel has a bodyguard of two hundred men, besides the
volunteer guard of his innumerable children, who are broken up in two groups,
one always at Court, “and these are made the most of”, the other scattered up
and down the country, as a sort of royal garrison. The wretched subjects, who “suffer
more from their King with a good will than they would from any stranger under
force”, are punished with death for the smallest things. Only two small classes
have any privileges: ministers of religion share with the greatest nobles the
sole right of access to the person of the Mortal God.
Cadamosto set up a mart in the upland and made what profits he could from their
miserable poverty, making exchanges with cottons, cloths, oil, millet, skins,
palm-leaves, and vegetables, and above all, of course, with gold, what little
there was to be had. “Meantime the negroes came stupidly crowding about me,
wondering at our Christian symbols; our white colour,
our dress and shape of body, our Damascenes, garments of black silk and robes
of blue cloth or dyed wool, all amazed them; some insisted that the white colour of the strangers was not natural but put on”; as
with Cook and so many others the savages now behaved with Cadamosto.
They spat upon his arm and tried to rub off the white paint; then they wondered
more than ever when they found the flesh itself was white.
Of gold after all
not much was to be got, and the exploring party was not long in returning to
the caravels and pushing on beyond Cape Verde. To the last the ships and their
instruments were the chief terror and delight of the negroes and above all of
the negro women; the whole thing was the work of demons, they said, not of men,
seeing that our engines of war could fell one hundred men at one discharge; the
trumpets sounding they took to be the yells of a living and furious beast of prey. Cadamosto gave them a trumpet that they might see it
was made by art; they changed their minds accordingly, and decided that such
things were directly made by God himself, above all admiring the different
tones, and crying loudly that they had never seen anything so wonderful.
The women looked
through every part of the ship—masts, helm, anchors, sails, and oars. The eyes
painted on the bow excited them: the ship had eyes and could see before it, and
the men who used it must be wonderful enchanters like the demons. “This
specially they wondered, that we could sail out of all sight of land and yet
know well enough where we were, all which, said they, could not happen, without
black art. Scarcely less was their wonder at the sight of lighted candles, as
they had never before seen any light but that of fire, when I shewed them how
to make candles from wax which before they had always thrown aside as
worthless, they were still more amazed, saying there was nothing we did not
know”.
And now Cadamosto was ready to put off from the coast into the
ocean and strike south for the kingdom of Gambro, as he had been charged by the
Prince, who had told him it was not far from the Senegal, as the negroes had
reported to him at Sagres. And that kingdom, he had
been told, was so rich in gold that if Christians could reach it they would
gain endless riches.
So with two aims,
first to find the golden land, and second to make discoveries in the unknown,
the Venetian was just beginning to start afresh, when he was joined by two more
ships from Portugal, and they agreed to round Cape Verde together. It was only
some forty miles beyond Budomel and the caravels
reached it next day.
Cape Verde gets
its name from its green grass and trees, like C. Blanco from its white sand.
Both are very prominent, lofty, and seen from a great distance, as they run out
far into the sea, but Cape Verde is more picturesque, dotted as it is with
little native villages on the side of the ocean, and with three small desert
islands a short distance from the mainland, where the sailors found birds'’nests and eggs in thousands, of kinds unknown in
Europe, and, above all, enormous shell-fish (turtles), of twelve pounds'
weight.
Soon after passing
C. Verde, the coast makes a great sweep to the east, still covered with
evergreen trees, coming down in thick woods to within a bowshot of the sea, so
that from a distance the forest line seems to touch the high-water mark, “as we
thought at first looking on ahead from our ships. Many countries have I been in
to East and West, but never did I see a prettier sight”.
From the place the
description again changes to the people, and we are told once more with
wearisome repetitions about the people beyond C. Verde, in most ways like the
negroes of the Senegal but “not obedient to that kingdom and abhorring the
tyranny of the negro Princes, having no King or laws themselves, worshipping
idols, using poisoned arrows which kill at once, even though they drew but
little blood”,—in short a most truculent folk, but very fine of stature, black
and comely. The whole coast east of C. Verde was found unapproachable, except
for certain narrow harbours, till “with a south wind
we reached the mouth of a river, called Ruim, a
bowshot across at the mouth. And when we sighted this river, which was sixty
miles beyond C. Verde, we cast anchor at sunset in ten or twelve paces of
water, four or five miles from the shore, but when it was day, as the look-out
saw there was a reef of rocks on which the sea broke itself, we sailed on and
came to the mouth of another river as large as the Senegal, with trees growing
down to the water's edge and promising a most fertile country”. Cadamosto determined to land a scout here, and caused lots
cast among his slave-interpreters which was to land. “And of these slaves,
negroes whom the native kings in the past had sold to Portuguese and who had
then been trained in Europe I had many with me who were to open the country for
our trade and to parley between us and the natives. Now the lot fell upon the
Genoese caravel (which had joined the explorers), to draw into the shore and
land a prisoner, to try the good will of the natives before any
one else ventured”. The poor wretch, instructed to enquire about the
races living on the river and their manners, polity, King's name and capital,
gold supply, and other matters of commerce, had no sooner swum ashore than he
was seized and cut to pieces by some armed savages, while the ships sailed on
with a south wind, making no attempt to avenge their victim, till after a
lovely coast, fringed with trees, low-lying, and rich exceedingly, they came to
the mouth of the Gambra, three or four miles across,
the haven where they would be, and where Cadamosto expected his full harvest of gold and pepper and aromatics.
The smallest
caravel started at once the very next morning after the discovery to go
upstream, taking a boat with it, in case the stream should suddenly get too
shallow for anything larger, while the sailors were to keep sounding the river
with their poles all the way. Everybody too kept a sharp look-out for native
canoes. They had not long to wait. Two miles up the river three native Almadias came suddenly out upon them and then
stopped dead, too astonished at the ship and the white men in it to offer to do
more, though they had at first a threatening look and were now invited to a
parley by the Europeans with every sign that could be thought of.
As the natives
would not come any nearer, the caravel returned to the mouth of the river, and
next morning at about nine o'clock the whole fleet started together upstream to
explore “with the hope of finding some more friendly natives by the kind care
of Heaven”. Four miles up the negroes came out upon them again in greater
force, “most of them sooty black in colour, dressed
in white cotton, with something like a German helmet on their heads, with two
wings on either side and a feather in the middle. A Moor stood in the bow of
each Almadia, holding a round leather shield and
encouraging his men in their thirteen canoes to fight and to row up boldly to
the caravels. Now their oars were larger than ours and in number they seemed
past counting”. After a short breathing space, while each party glared upon the
other, the negroes shot their arrows and the caravels replied with their
engines, which killed a whole rank of the natives. The savages then crowded
round the little caravel and set upon her; they were at last beaten off with
heavy loss and all fled; the slave interpreters shouting out to them as they
rowed away that they might as well come to terms with men who were only there
for commerce, and had come from the ends of the earth to give the King of Gambia
a present from his brother of Portugal, “and for that we hoped to be exceeding well loved and cherished by the king of Gambia. But we
wanted to know who and where their king was, and what was the name of this
river. They should come without fear and take of us what they would, giving us
in return of theirs”.
The negroes
shouted back that they could not be mistaken about the strangers, they were
Christians. What could they have to do with them; they knew how they had
behaved to the King of Senegal. No good men could stand Christians who ate
human flesh. What else did they buy negro slaves for? Christians were
plundering brigands too and had come to rob them. As for their king, he was
three days' journey from the river, which was called Gambia.
When Cadamosto tried to come to closer quarters, the natives
disappeared, and the crews refused to venture any farther upstream. So the
caravels turned back, sailed down the river, and coasted away west to Cape
Verde, and so home to Portugal. But before the Venetian ends his journal, he
tells us how near Prince Henry’s ships had now come to the Equator. “When we
were in the river of Gambia, once only did we see the North Star, which was so
low that it seemed almost to touch the sea”. To make up for the loss of the
Pole Star—sunk to “the third part of a lance's length above the edge of the
water”,—Cadamosto and his men had a view of six
brilliant stars, “in form of a cross”, while the June night was “of thirteen
hours and the day of eleven”.
Cadamosto only went home to refit for a second voyage. Though at first he had been
baffled by the “savagery of the men of Gambia” from finding out much about
them, he resolved to try again, sailed out the very next year by way of the
Canaries and Cape Blanco, and found, after three days' more sailing, certain
islands off Cape Verde, where no one had been before. The lookouts saw two very
large islands, towards the larger of which they sailed at once, in the hope of
finding good anchorage and friendly natives. But no one, friend or foe, seemed
to live there.
So next morning,
says Cadamosto, that I might satisfy my own mind, I
bade ten of my men, armed with missiles and cross-bows, to explore the inland.
They crossed the hills that cut off the interior from the coast, but found
nothing except doves, who were so tame that they could be caught in any number
by the hand.
And now from
another side of the first island they caught sight of three others towards the
north, and of two more towards the west, which could not be clearly seen
because of the great distance. “But for the matter of that, we did not care to
go out of our way to find what we now expected, that all these other islands
were desolate like the first. So we went on our way (due south) and so passed
another island, and, coming to the mouth of a river, landed in search of fresh
water and found a beautiful and fruitful country covered with trees. Some
sailors who went inland found cakes of salt, white and small, by the side of
the river, and immense numbers of great turtles, with shells of such size that
they could make very good shields for an army”.
Here they stayed a
couple of days, exploring in the country and fishing in the river, which was so
broad and deep that it would easily bear a ship of one hundred and fifty tons
burden and a full bowshot would not carry across it. Then, naming their first
discovered island Boa Vista, and the largest of the group St. James, because it
was on the feast of the Apostle they found it, they sailed on along the coast
of the mainland, till they came to the Place of the Two Palms, between the
Senegal and Cape Verde, “and since the whole land was known to us before, we
did not stay, but boldly rounded C. Verde and ran along to the Gambia”. Up this
they at once began to steer.
No canoes came out
upon them this time, and no natives appeared, except a few who hung about some
way off and did not offer to stop them. Ten miles up they found a small island,
where one of the sailors died of a fever, and they called the new discovered land
St. Andrew, after him. The natives were now much more approachable and Cadamosto’s men conversed with the bolder ones who came
close up to the caravel. Like the men of Senegal, two things above all
astonished and confounded them, the white sails of the ships and the white
skins of the sailors. After much debate, carried on by yelling from boat to
boat, one of the negroes came on board the caravel and was loaded with
presents, to make him more communicative. The ruse was successful. The string
of his tongue was quite loosed and he chattered along freely enough. The
country, like the river, was called Gambia; its king, Farosangul,
lived ten days’ journey toward the south, but he was himself under the Emperor
of Melli, chief of all the negroes.
Was there no one
nearer than Farosangul? Oh, yes, there was Battimansa, King Batti, and a
good many other princes who lived quite close to the river. Would he guide them
to Battimansa? Yes, safe enough, his country was only
some forty miles from the mouth of the Gamb’a.
“And so we came to Battimansa, where the river was narrowed down to
about a mile in breadth," where Cadamosto offered presents to the King, and made a great speech before the negro
magnates, which is abridged in the narrative, "lest the matter should
become a great Iliad”. King Batti returned the
Portuguese presents with gifts of slaves and gold, but the Europeans were sadly
disappointed with the gold. It was not at all equal to what they expected, or
what the people of Senegal had talked of; "being poor themselves, they had
fancied their neighbours must be rich." On the other hand, the negroes of
Gambia would give almost any price for trinkets and worthless toys, because
they were new. Fifteen days, or nearly that, did the Portuguese stay there trading,
and immense was the variety of their visitors in that time. Most came on board
simply from wonder and to stare at them, others to sell their cotton cloths,
nets, gold rings, civet and furs, baboons and marmots, fruit and especially
dates. Each canoe seemed to differ in its build and its crew from the last. The
river, crowded with this light craft, was “like the Rhone, near Lyons”, but the
natives worked their boats like gondolas, standing, one rowing and another
steering with oars, that were like half a lance in shape, a pace and a half
long, with a round board like a trencher tied at the end. “And with these they
make very good pace, being great coasting voyagers, but not venturing far out
to sea or away from their own country, lest they should be seized and sold for
slaves to the Christians”.
After the
fortnight's stay in Battimansa’s country, the crews
began to fall ill and Cadamosto determined to drop
down the river once more to the coast, noting as he did so all the habits of
the natives. Most of them were idolaters, nearly all had implicit faith in
charms, some worshipped “Mahmoud most vile”, and some were Nomades like the Gypsies of Europe. For the most part the people of the Gambra lived like those of the Senegal, dressing in cotton
and using the same food, except that they ate dog's flesh and were all
tattooed, women as well as men.
We need not follow Cadamosto in his accounts of the great trees, the
wild elephants, great bats and "horse-fish" of the country. A chief
called Gnumi-Mansa, King Gnumi,
living near the mouth of the Gambia, took him on an elephant-hunt, in which he
got the trophies, foot, trunk, and skin, that he took home and presented to
Prince Henry.
On descending the
Gambia, the caravel tried to coast along the unexplored land, but was driven by
a storm into the open sea. After driving about some time and nearly running on
a dangerous coast, they came at last to the mouth of a great river which they
called Rio Grande, “for it seemed more like a gulf or arm of the sea than a
river, and was nearly twenty miles across, some twenty-five leagues beyond the
Gambia”. Here they met natives in two canoes, who made signs of peace, but
could not understand the language of the interpreters. The new country was
absolutely outside the farthest limits of earlier exploration, and discovery
would have to begin afresh. Cadamosto had no mind to
risk anything more. His crew were sick and tired, and he turned back to Lisbon,
observing, before he left the Ra or Rio Grande, as he noticed in his earlier
voyage, that the North Star almost touched the horizon and that "the tides
of that coast were very marvellous. For instead of
flow and ebb being six hours each, as at Venice, the flow here was but four,
and the ebb eight, the tide rising with such force that three anchors could
hardly hold the caravel."
XVIIIVOYAGES OF DIEGO GOMEZ. 1458-60.
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