READING HALL "THE DOORS OF WISDOM" 2024 |
CREATION OF THE UNIVERSE ACCORDING GENESIS |
HISTORY
OF ALASKA.
CHAPTER XXIV.
FURTHER ATTEMPTS AT FOREIGN COLONIZATION.
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On the 4th the search was continued in boats, for now
the water was shoaling rapidly, and after proceeding fourteen miles farther,
only a small open space was visible to the eastward. A few days later the party
set forth on their return to the Rurik, but were driven back to shore by
a violent storm. “It seemed,” says Kotzebue, “as if fortune had sent this storm
to enable us to make a very remarkable discovery, which we owe to Dr Eschscholtz. We had climbed much about during our stay,
without discovering that we were on real icebergs. The doctor, who had extended
his excursions, found part of the bank broken down, and saw, to his
astonishment, that the interior of the mountain consisted purely of ice. At
this news, we all went, provided with shovels and crows, to examine this
phenomenon more closely, and soon arrived at a place where the back rises
almost perpendicularly out of the sea to a height of a hundred feet; and then
runs off, rising still higher. We saw masses of the purest ice, of the height
of a hundred feet, which are under a cover of moss and grass, and could not
have been produced but by some terrible revolution. The place, which by some
accident had fallen in and is now exposed to the sun and air, melts away, and a
good deal of water flows into the sea. An indisputable proof that what we saw
was real ice is the quantity of mammoths’ teeth and bones which were exposed to
view by the melting, and among which I myself found a very fine tooth. We could
not assign any reason for a strong smell, like that of burnt horn, which we
perceived in this place.”
On the 11th of August the Rurik left the inlet
which now bears the name of Kotzebue Sound, and sailed for St Lawrence Island
and thence for Unalaska, where the commander gave orders to the agent of the
Russian American Company to have men, boats, and supplies in readiness for the
following summer, when he purposed to make a thorough exploration of the
farther north-west. Remaining only long enough for needed repairs, he proceeded
to San Francisco without having attempted to explore, according to his instructions,
the coast of Alaska southward from Norton Sound, then a terra incognita,
but, as it proved, one of the richest portions of the territory. After sharing
in a .conference touching the affairs of the Ross colony, at which Kuskof and the governor of California were present, as is
mentioned elsewhere, he sailed for the Sandwich Islands, taking on board Eliot
and three of his fellow-captives.
Landing at the island of Hawaii, Kotzebue was met by
Kamehameha, who was now king of the entire group, and thus describes his
reception: “I now stood at the side of the celebrated Tamaahmaah,
who has attracted the attention of all Europe, and who inspired me with the
greatest confidence by his unreserved and friendly behavior. He conducted me to
his straw palace, which, according to the custom of the country, consisted only
of one spacious apartment; and, like all the houses here; afforded a free
draught both to the land and sea breezes. They offered us European chairs very
neatly made, placed a mahogany table before us, and we were then in possession
of all the furniture of the palace. Tamaahmaah’s dress, which consisted of a white shirt, blue pantaloons,, a red waistcoat, and
a colored neckcloth, surprised me very much, for I had formed very different
notions of the royal attire. The distinguished personages present at our
audience, who had all seated themselves on the ground, wore a still more
singular costume than the king; for their black frocks looked very ludicrous on
the naked body. One of the ministers had the waist half-way up his back; the
coat had been buttoned with the greatest difficulty; he perspired freely in his
tight state costume, and his distress was evident; but fashion would not permit
him to relieve himself of the inconvenience. The sentinels at the door were
quite naked; a cartridge-box and a pair of pistols were tied round their waist,
and they held a musket in their hand.
“After the king had poured out some very good wine,
and had himself drunk to our health, I made him acquainted with my intention of
taking in fresh provisions, water, and wood. A young man of the name of Cook,
the only white whom the king had about him, acted as interpreter. Tamaahmaah desired him to say to me as follows: ‘I learn
that you are the commander of a ship of war, and are engaged in a voyage
similar to those of Cook and Vancouver, and consequently do not engage in
trade; it is therefore my intention not to carry on any trade with you, but to
provide you gratis with everything that my islands produce. I shall now beg you
to inform me whether it is with the consent of your emperor that his subjects
begin to disturb me in my old age. Since Tamaahmaah has been king of these islands, no European has had cause to complain of having
suffered injustice here. I have made my islands an asylum for all nations, and
honestly supplied with provisions every ship that desired them.”
After alluding to the trouble caused by Hagemeister
and his party, the king continues: “A Russian physician, named Scheffer, who
came here some months ago, pretended that he had been sent by the Emperor
Alexander to botanize on my islands. I not only gave him this permission, but
also promised him every assistance; and made him a present of a piece of land,
with peasants, so that he could never want for provisions. What was the
consequence of my hospitality? Even before he left Owhyee,
he repaid my kindness with ingratitude, which I bore patiently. Then, according
to his own desire, he travelled from one place to another; and at last settled
in the fruitful island of Woahoo, where he proved
himself to be my most inveterate enemy; destroying our sanctuary, the Morai;
and exciting against me, in the island of Atooi, King
Tamary, who had submitted to my power years before. Scheffer is there at this
very moment and threatens my islands.”
“I assured Tamaahmaah,”
continues Kotzebue, “that the bad conduct of the Russians here must not be
ascribed to the will of our emperor, who never commanded his subjects to do an
unjust act; but that the extent of his empire prevented him from being
immediately informed of bad actions, which, however, were not allowed to remain
unpunished when they came to his knowledge. The king seemed very much pleased
on my assuring him that our sovereign never intended to conquer his islands;
the glasses were immediately filled, to drink the emperor’s health, and
Kamehameha was even more cordial than before.”
Eliot, who before his captivity had lived for two
years in the Sandwich Islands as physician and chief favorite to the king,
remained at Hawaii in his former position; and taking his leave in the middle
of December, Kotzebue sailed in a south-westerly direction. On the 1st of
January, 1817, he discovered a low wooded islet, to which was given the name of
New Year’s Island. Three days later a chain of islands was sighted, extending
as far as the eye could reach, the spaces between being filled with reefs. After
some weeks had been spent amid these and other groups in the Caroline
Archipelago, the Rurik was again headed for Unalaska, her commander purposing
to continue his explorations in search of a northeast passage. But this was
not to be. On the 11th of April, when in latitude 44° 30' N. and longitude 181°
8' w., a violent storm arose, and during the following night increased to a
hurricane. “The waves, which before ran high,” says Kotzebue, for I cannot do
better than use his own words, “rose in immense masses, such as I had never yet
seen; the Rurik suffered beyond description. Immediately after midnight the
fury of the hurricane rose to such a degree, that it tore the tops of the waves
from the sea, and drove them in the form of a thick rain over the surface of
the ocean. Nobody who has not witnessed such a scene can form an adequate idea
of it. It seems as if a direful revolution was at that moment destroying the
whole stupendous fabric of nature.
“I had just relieved Lieutenant Schischmareff.
Besides myself, there were four sailors on the deck, of whom two were holding
the helm; the rest of the crew I had, for greater security, sent into the hold.
At four o’clock in the morning I was just looking at the height of a foaming
wave, when it suddenly took its direction to the Rurik, and in the same moment
threw me down senseless. The violent pain which I felt on recovering was
heightened by the melancholy sight of my ship, whose fate would be inevitable
if the hurricane should rage for another hour; for not a corner of it had
escaped the ravages of that furious wave. The first thing I saw was the broken
bowsprit; and an idea may be formed of the violence of the water, which at once
dashed in pieces a beam of two feet in diameter. The loss was the more
important, as the two masts could not long withstand the tossing of the ship,
and then deliverance would be impossible. The gigantic wave broke the leg of
one of my sailors; a subaltern officer was thrown into the sea, but saved himself
with much presence of mind by seizing the rope which hung behind the ship; the
steering-wheel was broken, the two sailors who held it were much hurt, and I
myself thrown violently with my breast against a corner, suffered severe pain,
and was obliged to keep my bed for several days.”
When the storm had moderated the vessel was put in
order, and reached Unalaska in safety, though heavy weather prevailed during
the rest of the voyage. She was then unrigged, unloaded, careened, and
repaired, and within a month was again ready for sea. Boats, provisions, and a
party of Aleuts, together with two interpreters from Kadiak, were provided by
the agent, as Kotzebue had directed, and on the 29th of June the Rurik again sailed on her voyage northward. On the 10th of July St Lawrence Island
was sighted, and here the commander ascertained that ice-floes had surrounded
it on the south-east until three days before. Anchoring at midnight off its
northern promontory, he found an unbroken ice-pack toward the north and east.
There was now no hope of passing Bering Strait until
the end of the month, when, as Kotzebue thought, the season would be too far
advanced for a successful voyage. Moreover, his health was shattered; his
breathing was difficult; he was suffering from spasms in the chest, fainting
fits, and hemorrhage of the lungs. The surgeon of the vessel declared that to
remain longer in the neighborhood of the ice would cost him his life. “More
than once,” he says, “I resolved to brave death, but I felt that I must suppress
my ambition. I signified to the crew, in writing, that my ill health obliged me
to return to Oonalaska. The moment I signed the paper
was the most painful in my life, for with this stroke of the pen I gave up the
ardent and long-cherished wish of my heart.”
Returning by way of the Sandwich Islands, Kotzbue reached Hawaii on the 27th of September. Here he
was greeted by Kamehameha and his old acquaintance, Eliot de Castro. Sailing
thence to Oahu, he found six American ships at anchor, and one—the Kadiak—belonging
to the Russian American Company, hauled up on the beach. In this vessel Sheffer
had reached Oahu, after being expelled from Kauai, where he intended to found a
settlement. A few days later the Boston arrived on her way to Canton,
with a cargo of furs shipped from Novo Arkhangelsk.
Calling at St Helena on his homeward voyage, Kotzebue
met with a most surly reception from the British naval officers who kept guard
over the rock where the captive emperor was then entombed alive, his craft
being fired upon without apparent cause. His reception in England was more
cordial. During a visit to London, where business compelled him to spend a few
days on his way to Kronstadt, he was introduced to the Prince Regent and to the
Archduke Nikolai Pavlovitch. On the 23d of July,
1818, the Rurik sailed past the port of Revel, and now, after an absence
of three years, Kotzebue once more beheld his native city. A week later the
vessel east anchor in the Neva, opposite the palace of Count Romanof.
Before making further mention of Sheffer’s exploits in
the Hawaiian Islands, it is necessary to refer to incidents which preceded the
voyage of the Rurik. In April 1814 one of Baranof’s American friends,
Captain Bennett, who had sold him two vessels and their cargoes, offered to
accept fur-seal skins in part payment, but having none of the required kind on
hand at Novo Arkhangelsk, the chief manager induced Bennett to proceed in the Bering to the island of St Paul in search of them, and at the same time to take a
cargo of furs, worth half a million roubles, to be
landed at Okhotsk. There he took on board a number of the company’s hunters who
were awaiting passage, and a large mail of the company’s despatches.
He then sailed for the Sandwich Islands, where it had been arranged that he
should purchase a cargo of taro, salt, and other provisions. Having exhausted
the resources of Hawaii, he proceeded to Kauai, where, the captain being on
shore, the ship was struck by a sudden squall, and vessel and cargo were cast
on the beach. King Tomari, who was then in power at Kauai, though subject to
Kamehameha’s authority, offered Bennett every assistance in collecting his
cargo; but when all that could be saved had been secured beyond reach of the
waves, he coolly appropriated it as a perquisite of the owner of the soil. The
captain arid some of his crew soon afterward made their way back to Alaska.
At the time when the Rurik left Kronstadt the
imperial government was fitting out two vessels, the Suvarof and Kutusof for an expedition to Russian
America. They were placed in charge of Captain Lozaref,
and the Suvarof with the commander on board
sailed from Kronstadt on the 8th of October, 1813, arriving at Novo Arkhangelsk
in November of the following year. Lozaref, in common
with all the naval officers, was prejudiced against Baranof. Disputes between
the two men arose at once, and ceased only when the ship set sail from Novo
Arkhangelsk. Lozaref desired to pass the winter at
Novo Arkhangelsk, and to land his cargo and repair the vessel, but Baranof
insisted that he should make a winter voyage to the Prybilof Islands for a cargo of furs, as there was not enough peltry at Novo Arkhangelsk
to complete his freight. The captain then put to sea, but returned almost
immediately, under pretence that the ship was
leaking, and remained in port until the following May, when he finally executed
the chief manager’s orders. Soon after his return he again set sail on the 24th
of July, leaving the anchorage hurriedly and without waiting for the mail
prepared by Baranof for the home office of the company. Enraged at this, the
chief manager despatched a fleet bidarka after the
retreating ship, and threatened to open fire on her, but did not execute his
threat. The Suvarof then proceeded on her voyage to
St Petersburg, calling at San Francisco and at the port of Callao, where a part
of the cargo was exchanged for Russian products.
One of the officers of the Suvarof was the German doctor, Sheffer, who, having quarrelled with the commander, had for that reason found favor in the eyes of Baranof.
Sheffer remained at Novo Arkhangelsk, and being a plausible adventurer, and
somewhat of a linguist, succeeded in convincing the autocrat of the colonies
that he was the man to carry out his schemes of colonization in the Hawaiian
Islands.
Bennett, who had now returned to Novo Arkhangelsk,
urged Baranof to demand the return of the Bering’s cargo, but the latter
would not consent to use force for such a purpose, as he had frequently
exchanged presents and friendly messages with Kamehameha through their mutual
acquaintances among the American north-west traders. He decided, therefore, to
send Sheffer to the Sandwich Islands as a passenger in a foreign vessel, with
instructions to open negotiations with the Hawaiian monarch. The doctor sailed
on the Isabella, which left Novo Arkhangelsk on the 5th of October,
1815, and it was arranged that the Otkrytie,
commanded by Lieutenant Podushkin, should follow in
the spring with a number of native mechanics and laborers for the purpose of
establishing a settlement.
On arriving at Hawaii, Sheffer presented himself at
once before Kamehameha and delivered letters and presents from Baranof, at the
same time complaining of King Tomari for seizing the cargo of the Bering.
The king promised redress, and appeared to listen favorably to the doctor’s
proposals to establish more intimate relations with the chief manager of the
Russian American Company. He even assigned to Sheffer several pieces of land,
whereon to make experiments in the planting of grain and vegetables. One of them
was situated on the island of Kauai, the domain of King Tomari. Though Sheffer
continued in favor for a time, he found that he could not compete with the
Englishmen and Americans, who were already established at Kamehameha’s court,
and resolved to try his fortune with Tomari. During the first week of his stay
in Kauai, it was his good fortune to cure the queen of an intermittent fever
and the king of dropsy. The German adventurer was now in the good graces of his
intended victim, and in a few weeks an agreement was drawn up to serve as the
basis for a formal treaty, subject to the approval of the Russian government.
It was stipulated that the Bering’s cargo
should be returned to the Russians, with the exception of a few articles which
the king required, and for which he bound himself to pay in sandal-wood; that
Tomari should send annually to the colonies a cargo of dried taro root; that
all the sandal-wood on the islands subject to Tomari should be placed at
Sheffer’s disposal, to be sold only to the Russian American Company; and that
the company should have the right to establish stations or factories in any
part of the king’s possessions. As an offset to these favors, the doctor
pledged himself to furnish five hundred men, and some armed vessels, for the
purpose of assisting in the overthrow of Kamehameha, and of placing Tomari on
his throne. The troops were to be under Sheffer’s command, and in case of
success, one half of the island of Hawaii was to be ceded to the company.
Finally Tomari and all his people were to be placed under the protection of
Russia. In order more firmly to establish the king’s confidence in his
authority, Sheffer at once bought an American schooner for $5,000, and agreed
to purchase a ship for the sum of $40,000, payment to be made in furs, which he
promised to order from Novo Arkhangelsk.
In the meantime, Sheffer’s intrigues had been watched
by American and English traders, and by the Europeans settled on the islands
under Kamehameha’s protection. They took care to magnify the danger in the eyes
of the latter, urging him to enter on a campaign against Sheffer and the
would-be rebel Tomari. Though opposed to open hostility, Kamehameha’s repeated
orders to Tomari finally resulted in an estrangement between him and the German
doctor, who by this time had succeeded in establishing plantations on various
points of the Islands, and had erected buildings for his own accommodation, for
the mechanics and laborers who had how arrived in the Otkrytie,
and for housing the crops intended for shipment to Novo Arkhangelsk. The
unfriendly feeling thus engendered increased in intensity until the Russians
and Aleuts were looked upon by the Hawaiians as enemies, and were compelled to
adopt measures for their defence. A few slender
fortifications were erected at Wymea, the ruins of
which remains to the present day.
As soon as Baranof ascertained that this, the pet
scheme of his old age, must fail, he lost no time in forwarding orders to
Sheffer to give up everything, and to save what he could out of the wreck which
was impending. By this time news had also been received of the refusal, on the part
of the imperial government to sanction the scheme of annexation. The doctor’s
position became more critical every day. From Novo Arkhangelsk he could expect
no further support, while on the Islands the Americans and English became
constantly more aggressive. A small Russian station on the island of Hawaii was
sacked cy sailors from an American ship, and they even threatened to destroy
the company’s plantations on Kauai. A report was also started that American
men-of-war were on their way to the Islands. Some of the Americans in the
company’s service became disaffected, one of them, Captain Wosdwith,
who commanded the Ilmen, purposely running his
vessel on the beach and joining the adversaries of Sheffer.
By this time the ire of Tomari’s subjects had been
roused against the intruders, and they forced the Russians to abandon their
settlements and to seek refuge on board the Kadiak, which was anchored
off the island. When the fugitives left the beach it was discovered that the
boat had been scuttled; the crew, however, reached the vessel by swimming. The
natives now turned the guns of the fort against them and endeavored to sink the
ship. The shot fell harmless, but it was discovered that the vessel had sprung
a-leak, and that the water was gaining rapidly. In this predicament, an effort
was made to get off the Ilmen, which
succeeded. The American captain of the Kadiak was then transferred to
the Ilmen by Sheffer, and sent to Novo
Arkhangelsk to carry to Baranof the news of the failure of his enterprise, a
duty which the doctor did not wish to undertake in person. After a brief stay
at Kamehameha’s court, exposed to constant annoyance from foreigners,
accompanied with threats of personal violence, Sheffer finally escaped to China
on board an American vessel, leaving the rest of his countrymen, and the Aleuts
sent from Novo Arkhangelsk, to labor on the plantations. Of these Tarakanof took charge, and finally succeeded in securing
their return in 1818, by engaging himself and his men to an American skipper to
hunt sea-otter for a brief season on the Californian coast. Thus ended the
attempt at colonization in the Hawaiian Islands, whereby nothing was gained,
and a loss of two hundred and fifty thousand roubles was incurred by the Russian American Company.
BUEÇ